Watch it

“Friday Night Lights” (8 p.m., NBC). Season premiere. This football drama that’s really more about small-town life than football is intelligent, doesn’t pander and hits the right emotional buttons like few other shows can.  It’s one of the best dramas out there, and also one of the least watched. There’s nothing else on tonight, so you owe it to yourself to check it out.

“Party Down” (10 p.m., Starz). The crew caters an orgy. Hey, it’s premium cable!

Record it

“What Would You Do?” (9 p.m., ABC). This hidden-camera show is the latest attempt by the folks at ABC News to make you feel like a self-centered jerk for not helping others. John Stossel must be involved somehow.

Skip it

“Food Party” (8 and 8:15 p.m., IFC). I recommended this last week. Never mind. I tried watching and got about 3 minutes into it before turning it off. Waaaay too self-consciously quirky, like a college student’s performance art piece. Only even more annoying.